Here is my solution: An electronic wine chiller, connected to an enteral feeding pump, sitting on the top of the tank:

Cost: This is subjective, but for me the ability to keep NPS corals, and to not have to feed again for an entire month, means that I'd be willing to spend several hundred dollars. Settling: Larger pieces of food should not settle to the bottom of the food container.ДЎ2. Electrically safe: Splashed water, condensation, or salt creep would not shock anything, and would not cause failure.ДЎ1. Mechanically Safe: No possibility, at all, of all the food being fed at once.ДЎ0. Reliability: It would not fail (and thus not starve the tank.)Д©. This means the unit would need to be small, quiet, and have a decent appearance.ДЁ. Would sit on top of tank, so that the food would go directly into the display. Capacity: Would hold enough to feed an entire month without refilling.Д§. Refrigeration: Would keep the liquid chilled at all times, with an adjustable temperature as low as freezing (but would not freeze it).Д¦. Ability to feed very thick liquids, including melted mysis cubes.ДҐ. Adjustable feeding schedule: As short as every few minutes, or as long as every couple of hours. If you are feeding non-concentrated foods like melted mysis cubes (1 cube = 3ml), you could easily adjust it to a higher amount.ДЈ. Adjustable feeding amounts: In order to experiment with how much can be fed before problems arise (like nuisance algae), it needs to be pushbutton-adjustable. Reeds recommends that the foods not be diluted in water so very very small amounts of the concentrate must be fed each time.Дў. The foods that I'm using (Reed's Phytofeast and Reed's Rotifeast for the NPS corals Reed's Arctipods for the other corals and for the fish) are very concentrated. Tiny feeding amounts: As little as 0.1 milliliters at a time. The main requirements of the feeder were:ДЎ. I still get to watch the feedings (for me, every hour), I just don't have to stand up and do them. This makes it easy to compare coral growths (as well as nuisance algae growth) while varying the feeding amounts.ДЇree time: I thought that I'd miss feeding, but I don't. More accurate: Since the feeder is automatic, you know for sure how much you are feeding, and how much you have fed. No forgotten feedings: While not critical to fish, some corals (and certainly NPS) may not open again if you miss too many feedings. Some of the more difficult NPS will actually close up if you feed too much at one time thus, small continuous amounts are the only way to keep them alive. Mandatory for NPS: Non Photo Synthetic corals must have as close to continuous feeding as possible. Again this is not necessary food removed by the skimmer is being constantly replaced by the feeder (you may have to feed a little more, however, to make up for it.) Keep skimmer running: Many people also turn their skimmer off while feeding. This is not necessary with continuous feeding, since most of the food will be eaten in a few seconds, and thus won't even make it to the overflow. Keep pumps running: Many people turn their return pump off while feeding, so that food does not go to the sump. So you get to feed the same amount, but the fish and corals get more, and less rots. When you feed continuously, the fish and corals get most of the food before it settles. Less rotting: When you manually feed once or twice a day, much of the food gets past the fish and corals, and rots in the rocks and sand. Overall: The ocean generally feeds it's corals continuously (although maybe more at night), so duplicating this allows the corals (and some fish, especially tangs) to eat more like they do in the wild.

Diy automatic feeder